Jewelry in Ancient Egypt

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Why did you choose to specialize in Egyptology, and more specifically in the field of arts and crafts?  

I've been fascinated by ancient Egypt since I was in junior high... I devoured many novels and watched all the documentaries on TV. When I entered high school, it was obvious... I was going to be an Egyptologist! As I was living in Metz at the time, I moved to Paris to study art history and archaeology at the Sorbonne. I was interested in studying all civilizations, but nothing could compete with Egypt in my heart. I was accepted for a Master's degree in 2005, then a PhD in 2009. I completed my studies with the title of Doctor of Egyptology in 2017. When it came to the subject of my Master's thesis, I already knew that I wanted to work on everyday life and crafts. Indeed, I've always been sensitive to the techniques and choice of materials used by the ancient Egyptians. Whenever I see an object, such as a statue, a sarcophagus or a vase, I ask myself: how was it made? Why was it made? So I looked into the making of beer for my Master's degree and the making of alabaster objects for my thesis.

Was the jewelry of ancient Egypt merely ornamental?

In ancient Egypt, men, women and children wore a variety of ornaments: tiaras, necklaces, bracelets (wrist, arm, ankle), rings... but it seems that only women wore earrings, a fashion that originated in the Near East. Some jewelry may have been purely ornamental, such as pearl necklaces and earrings... but much of it had a special meaning. For example, certain necklaces were given by Pharaoh to his deserving subjects. They were part of the «gold of reward». Visible from the balcony of his palace, Seti I^er distributes large necklaces to Hormin, head of the royal harem, which the servants hasten to place around his neck. Rings with bezels in the shape of scarabs were also seals: engraved with hieroglyphs on their flat side, they could be rotated to serve as stamps. And then, of course, there were pendants and amulets that were apotropaic, i.e. «to protect against evil influences».

Did the Egyptians distinguish between talisman and amulet? What are the differences in their use?

In Egyptology, we prefer to speak of amulets rather than lucky charms. These are divine representations or symbols meant to protect their wearer, as the Egyptians were quite superstitious. In Egyptian culture, from childhood onwards, adults would make little girls and boys wear necklaces with pendants, representing particular divinities or symbols, to protect them from harm. In those days, infant mortality was very high. Adults too, of course, could wear them throughout their lives and, once dead, embalmers placed various amulets between the mummy's strips, in specific places. Such is the case of the «heart scarab», a large stone scarab placed on the chest of the deceased (where the heart is located), to protect this vital organ (which was not removed during mummification), the seat of feelings and emotions, but also of intelligence and memory. Jewelry was not the only item to receive «magical» decorations: I'm thinking of Pharaoh's attributes (sceptres, crowns, uraeus), but also everyday objects, such as kohl cases or wooden furniture (beds, bedside tables), which could be adorned with the image of the genie Bes, reputed to ward off evil spirits and nightmares. Magic was very much alive in ancient Egypt, as the gods came to Earth and the dead were able to return to the living, generally to bring them benefits, but also to cause them trouble. One could also carry a fragment of papyrus rolled up in a small case. On this papyrus was written a magic formula protecting its bearer. 

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What materials were these jewels made from? 

Jewellers used all kinds of materials. One thinks of course of gold, which was the flesh of the gods, and silver, which was much rarer. The Egyptians knew nothing of precious stones (ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond). For Egyptian jewelry and bracelets, they used semi-precious stones such as turquoise, carnelian, jasper and lapis lazuli. The most precious jewels (such as those found in Tutankhamun's tomb, worthy of a king) were made from these materials. Egyptians of all social classes wore glass and earthenware (pearls, inlays, pendants), the bright contrasts of color being particularly appreciated. More modest jewels were made of copper, bronze, bone, shells, etc. Since the early Pharaonic period, jewels have been found on the bodies of the deceased (mummified or not) or placed in the tomb or coffin.

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Was the creation and trade of these jewels reserved for certain craftsmen or were they produced on a domestic scale? 

In ancient Egypt, only the king - in theory - owned the land and everything it contained. Metals and minerals were extracted from the mines and quarries of the Egyptian desert by expeditions commissioned by the king and led by trusted men. They could also be purchased from foreign merchants (such as lapis lazuli, from Afghanistan) or obtained through tributes paid by the regions subject to Egypt. Gold, for example, came mainly from the mines of Nubia, in southern Egypt. These rare and precious materials were then stored in the royal palace or temples, and only craftsmen working in workshops adjacent to these reserves could use them. The jewels they made could be offered by the king, or purchased. On the other hand, it's possible that any skilful and creative person could have carved other readily available materials, such as bone, wood or stone, into jewelry.

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Was there a distinction between everyday jewelry, ceremonial jewelry and funeral jewelry? 

Yes, it does seem logical. It's easy to imagine how hard it must have been to spend a whole day (especially in the Egyptian climate) wearing a necklace. ousekh, Some necklaces were so heavy that a counterweight, worn on the back, was necessary to prevent them from becoming unbalanced. Some necklaces were so heavy that a counterweight, worn on the back, was necessary to prevent them from becoming unbalanced. Some particularly precious jewels were therefore reserved for special occasions (feasts, ceremonies, banquets). Others were made specifically for funerary equipment, such as mummy amulets, the use of which was explained in the Book of the Dead. However, many of the jewels found in tombs may have been worn during the person's lifetime.

In the Egyptian spiritual pantheon, gods and animals come together. What figures can be found on the jewels of this civilization? 

Take a look at the showcases in room 330 of the Louvre Museum (Sully wing, first floor). You'll see that many divinities are represented in jewelry, in human, animal or hybrid form: Bes, Thoth, Taouret, Mut, Horus, but also the sphinx or the’uraeus (cobra worn on the pharaoh's forehead). Each of these representations has a particular function, linked to the divinity and its powers.

- Eye of Horus, Ankh cross, Tyet... the key symbols of Egyptian civilization can be found on papyrus, tomb walls and jewelry. What are the main motifs transformed into jewelry?

You mentioned three of the main symbols. Their protective power must have been very powerful, which is why they are so common and, it's true, not only used in jewelry. The eye oudjat represents physical integrity, the cross ânkh is the hieroglyph of life, the red knot tit symbolizes the goddess Isis. It is often associated with the pillar djed «stability» of the god Osiris. The image of the blue lotus is also very popular: this aquatic flower, which blooms during the day and closes underwater at night, evokes the birth of the sun and its rebirth, and by extension that of the deceased.

How did the Egyptians relate to the notion of luxury?

That's a very good question! To answer it, you'd first have to define the word «luxury» and then do some in-depth research into Egyptian texts. In other words, a thesis! As always in Egyptology, you wouldn't get the whole picture. In other words, it's complicated to get the opinion of the entire Egyptian population on the subject, but only that of the elite, who had access to writing. We could also interpret certain scenes depicted in Egyptian tombs, where a certain pomp was displayed, as representations of New Kingdom banquets. But we must be careful not to fall into the trap of relying on ideas from our own culture! Let's not forget that these are funerary monuments, and their primary purpose was not to depict reality.

What evidence do we have of this fascinating civilization? (remarkable jewelry and handicrafts collections, for example)

Three collections of Egyptian jewelry come to mind. In addition to that of the Louvre already mentioned, that of the Petrie Museum in London is known to be very rich. Then, of course, there's the impressive collection of Tutankhamun's jewels, a tiny part of which was exhibited at the Grande Halle de la Villette last year: necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings... sumptuous caskets filled with jewels were found by Howard Carter in 1922 in the young king's last home. These masterpieces of jewelry will be displayed in the future Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), due to open in 2021.

At the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, you can admire the reconstruction of a dress made of 700 earthenware pearls! The pearls had been found scattered over the body of the deceased in a Giza tomb dating back over 4,500 years.

Thanks to Maryline.
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